Then, turn the bias tape over to the other side of the quilt. Now you can finish stitching the binding in the gap that was left. ![]() If there is bunching or if it is too loose, now if the best time to try again. At this point your binding should lay pretty flat to the quilt. Sew in the diagonal crease that you created on the right side of the binding. if you lift the quilt up from the binding like this, you will see how to get some room for sewing. I have them pinched together, but pinning is best. ![]() This is what it will look like after it is trimmed. It will need to line up with the edge of the that was creased. So the left side of the binding is on the right side of the binding.Ĭut the binding where indicated with the white line in the picture. Next, lay the other end of the binding on top of the new crease. Press this crease so you have it for a reference point. I start by laying one side flat and making a 45 degree crease in the binding so that it is now pointing perpendicular to the edge of the quilt. ![]() We are going to join the ends on a diagonal so there is less bulk in the binding. To give you an idea of what we are trying to do. This just gives me a smaller space to work with. Leave about 5 inches of overlapped binding, and an 8 inch gap in stitching between the beginning and the end of your bias tape. As you can see in this picture, I did not follow my own advice and only left a few inches of gap. I then sew in the crease closest to the edge. I start by unfolding the bias tape, but keeping the creases for reference marks.Īs you can see in the bottom right of this next picture, I line up the raw edge of the bias tape with the raw edge of quilt, right sides together. This can seem pretty intimidating, but it actually pretty simple. Leaving overwhelm in the dust.Next in my series of bias tape blog posts, I will be showing how to attach a bias tape binding to a quilt and how to join the ends of the binding. Just like this creepy chronic illness dictator I say call it what we like, keep it movin & lemme get back to the sewing machine! Eyeroll of exhaust. But then there’s the business of stylistically speaking the ways in which we fold the seam binding tape … You know? Shorting one of two sides vs just keeping halves … Mygawd is this thing on! I can’t I just cannot a n y m o r e good and final grief already. Not necessarily the various terms used across the board however! Even after reading this lovely article I think what I’ve learned after all is the use of terms is what’s mucking it all up. Bias tape, seam binding, double-fold seam binding … Uuuuuh … Starting with potholders & oven mitts as well as dish drying mats is thankfully helping with the understanding of edging in any event. Til that is previous to finding this read I learned that I’m improperly labeling ’seam binding’ altogether! Oh brother. I was excited to read your offering on the clarifications between single and double fold seam binding. Now let’s look at Straight Grain Binding: To watch a video on how I make bias tape, head over here!įrom what I can tell, bias tape and bias binding, when purchased from a large retailer, like JoAnn’s, are the same thing. ![]() Otherwise, there would be four layers of fabric appliqued on. Some projects that require bias tape, like finishing an applique project, do not apply the bias tape to the edge of the product, therefore, single fold is all that is necessary. Both of these tapes are exactly the same, made in the same way, the top one is just folded one more time! Why distinguish between single and double fold bias tape? For the bottom, you’d buy 1″ single fold bias tape. So, for the top tape, if you wanted to purchase an equivalent, you’d buy 1/2″ double fold bias tape. The difference is, after the top strip came out of the bias tape maker, I folded it in half again. I made both of these bias tapes myself, by cutting the fabric on the bias, sewing it together, and then using a bias tape maker. Here’s some bias tape, the top is double fold, the bottom is single fold.
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